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55 Peace Monuments in 6 Days
Netherlands & Germany, September 2-7, 2013

The primary purpose of my trip was to speak at a symposium in The Hague on September 2. I extended the trip to take trains across northern Germany and to visit Berlin, spending one night each in Lübeck (Germany) and Slubice (Poland). In six days, I visited 54 peace monuments and museums, 22 of which were in or near the Peace Palace in The Hague and 24 of which were in Berlin. This webpage is a record of the monuments and museums which I visited in the order in which I visited them. -- Edward W. Lollis

For all peace monuments in these countries, click here for the Netherlands, click here for Berlin & Potsdam, click here for the remainder of Germany, and click here for Poland.

Right click any image to enlarge / Zum Vergrößern auf das Bild klicken.

Saturday, 31 August 2013:

Fly from Knoxville to Chicago, miss plane to Amsterdam, depart for Frankfurt.

Sunday, 1 September 2013:

Arrive Frankfurt, fly to Amsterdam, take train to The Hague. Stay in Worldhotel Bel Air (3 nights).

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May 18, 2010 - United Nations Flag Parade, Johan de Wittlaan, The Hague (Netherlands). "In 2010 The Hague, in addition to other key UN cities, was granted [by whom?] its own, permanent flag parade consisting of 200 flags. The Hague is home to the highest number of international organisations, such as the International Court of Justice & the International Criminal Court, in the Netherlands... Extends [in front of the OPCW & World Forum convention center] from Rooseveltplantsoen to Bel Air Hotel. Lights in the ground illuminate the flags when it is dark. The parade consists of the flags of the 192 UN Member States, the flag of The Hague, and the flag of the United Nations. Unveiled by Alderman Frits Huffnagel &a group of international students. UN Flag Parades are also located in, among other cities, New York, home to the headquarters of the United Nations, and Geneva."

Monday, 2 September 2013:


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August 28, 1913 - Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Constructed just before World War I by the Carnegie Stichting / Carnegie Foundation (which was founded in 1904). Still owned by the Carnegie Foundation. (Philanthropist Andrew Carnegie [1835-1919] previously paid for the Pan American Union building -- now the Organization of American States (OAS) -- in Washington, DC (USA) in 1910.) The Peace Palace is now home of the International Court of Justice (ICJ) or World Court, the Permanent Court of Arbitration (PCA), the Peace Palace Library, and the Hague Academy of International Law. Click here for PP website showing selected monuments. 1 of 40 monuments in "Peace Symbols" by Zonia Baber (1948), pp. 26-27.


After 1924 - "The Cat that Saved International Peace and Justice," Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). 7-foot statue of Ramskells sculpted by Brettamore Higgs from a rare local granite. "Ramskells was a feral British Bombay cat adopted in 1923 by the ICJ justices. On 22 March 1924, a fire broke out in the Peace Palace. Ramskells awoke the sleeping justices & led them to safety through the thick smoke & into a secret 1500-foot corridor behind a large painting in the bedroom of the most junior justice. Ramskells was overcome with smoke inhalation & passed away three days later." /// Left image by EWL shows Peter van den Dungen arriving for the symposium. Right image also shows bridge (& reading room) between the Peace Palace & the building designed by British architect Michael Wilford & constructed in 2005-2007 for the Peace Palace Library & Hague Academy of International Law.


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2007 - World in Peace(s)?, The Hague (Netherlands). In entrance hall of the new building behind the Peace Palace which holds the Peace Palace Library & the Hague Academy of International Law. Shows all countries in the world in arbitrary places. Left image courtesy of Steve Fryburg. Unofficial title courtesy of Nike Liscaljet. Who deserves credit for this work?


September 2-3, 2013 - Symposium: "Celebrating Peace Philanthropy and Furthering Peace Education - In the Footsteps of Andrew Carnegie," Academy Hall, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Sponsored by the International Network of Museums for Peace (INMP). Speakers: Tadatoshi Akiba, Colin Archer, Hetty Burgman, David Cortright, Robert C. Croll, Donald Ferencz, Steve Killelea, Edward W. Lollis, Hope Elizabeth May, Federico Mayor, Theodor Meron, Betty Reardon, Jennifer Allen Simons, Gillian Sorensen, William Thomson, Sakuji Tanaka, Peter van den Dungen (1st day chair), Rien van Gendt, Steven van Hoogstraten, & Cora Weiss (2nd day chair). (NB: Middle image shows another group.)

September 2, 2013 - Release of the book "Monumental Beauty: Peace Monuments and Museums Around the World, Academy Hall, Peace Palace, The Hague (Netherlands). By Edward W. Lollis, Peace Partners International, Knoxville, Tennessee (USA), 75 pages. "This is the first book to reveal the beauty, the variety, and the meanings of peace monuments and museums. Arranged chronologically, it shows a selection of 416 peace monuments and museums from 70 countries and from all eras as far back as the Greeks and Romans." Left image shows Peter van den Dungen introducing the author.

June 15, 1907 - Ridderzaal / Salle des Comtes / Hall of Knights, The Hague (Netherlands). Ancient building restored 1898-1904 to serve its present purposes. Venue of the Second Hague Peace Conference, June-October 1907, & of the Peace Palace Philanthropy Gala [lower image] on 2 September 2013. /// "It is a little known fact that the initiative for the Second Hague Peace Conference came from civil society in the United States. Prompted by a petition in 1903 from the American Peace Society in Boston, the Massachusetts legislature passed a resolution requesting Congress to authorize the President of the United States to invite the governments of the world to join in establishing a regular international congress to meet at stated periods to deliberate upon the various questions of common interest. The idea was taken up in St. Louis in 1904 [year of the St. Louis Worlds Fair] by the Interparliamentary Union (IPU) that recommended a conference to deal with the subjects postponed at The Hague in 1899. It led to the negotiation of a series of arbitration treaties among the various nations and the consideration of plans for a series of congresses-the kind recommended by the Massachusetts legislature. President Theodore Roosevelt [1858-1919] responded to this invitation by convening the Second Hague Peace Conference. It was held on June 15, 1907, after being formally convened by the Czar. This time, Russia proposed an agenda limited to improvements in arbitration and humanitarian law, while America suggested discussing the limitation of armaments and the use of force in the collection of debts." /// This is the main building of the Dutch Parliament (Het Binnenhof) & is used for official royal receptions, interparliamentary conferences, etc. On the third Tuesday in September (Prinsjesdag) the Dutch monarch drives to the Ridderzaal in the Golden Carriage & opens Parliament by delivering a speech from the throne. /// Lower image by EWL shows the stage erected for the gala.

September 2, 2013 - Peter van den Dungen, Kazuyo Yamane & Edward W. Lollis at Peace Palace Philanthropy Gala, Ridderzaal / Hall of Knights, The Hague (Netherlands).
October 9, 2008 - Peter van den Dungen, Kazuyo Yamane & Edward W. Lollis at 6th International Conference, International Network of Museums for Peace (INMP), Kyoto University of Arts and Design, Kyoto (Japan).

Tuesday, 3 September 2013:

July 30, 1907 - Cornerstone, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Ceremoniously "laid" at a temporary site by Alexandre Ivanovitch de Nelidoff [1836-1910], Russian ambassador to France & president of the Second Hague Peace Conference. Now behind some shrubs on the northeast corner of the building. Inscribed: "'Paci Justitia Firmandaj Hanc Aedem Andreae Carnegie Munificentia Dedicavit / To preserve Peace through Justice the Munificence of Andrew Carnegie So Dedicates This Temple." /// In America, The Catholic Fortnightly Review publishes "The Apotheosis of Hank Edem." Excerpt: "Hank Edem was a stonemason, and a good one, [but he] could not stand prosperity... Here he is mingling with the effete and the haut monde, and getting boarding schoolish about his name. Now he spells it 'Hanc Aedem.' We are sorry... Mr. Carnegie, of course, can spell his name any way he pleases." /// Image by EWL shows Hope Elizabeth May at the cornerstone.

N.B.: The Peace Palace is arguably the world's richest collection of peace art & peace monuments. Unfortunately, neither the Carnegie Foundation nor anyone else maintains an adequate on-line description of the many works in & around the Peace Palace. Only a few are shown here.


August 28, 1913 - Main Entrance & Large Vestibule, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). The floor mosaic is Italian marble. It is inscribed "Sol justitiae illustra nos / The light of justice shines upon us." The grand staircase is directly in front of the main entrance, i.e. to the right of the vestibule as seen in the middle image. Note reception desk just to the left of the main entrance, as viewed from inside. /// The motto of Utrecht University is "Sol Iustitiae Illustra Nos / Sun of Justice, shine upon us." This motto was gleaned from a literal Latin Bible translation of Malachi 4:2. Rutgers University in New Jersey (USA), having a historical connection with Utrecht University, uses a modified version of this motto: "Sol iustitiae et occidentem illustra / Sun of righteousness, shine upon the West also."


1924 or 1925 - "Peace Through Justice," Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). On landing of the grand staircase. Gift from the govenment of the USA. By Irish-American sculptor Andrew O'Connor [1874-1941]. "The statue is a modern version of Lady Justice; she has cast off her blindfold, and her scales & sword are absent." Prof. Hope May of Central Michigan University says this sculpture was given pride of place in the Peace Palace design, but its arrival was delayed 11 years (until 1924) by wrangling in Washington, DC (USA) -- not to mention World War I. "Sites Relating to US History in the Netherlands" (webpage maintained by American Embassy in The Hague) says the statue was dedicated in 1925. Left photo was taken from "Christ the Redeemer" looking down. /// Behind the statue are 7 large stained glass windows by Jan Schouten [1852-1937] of the "Prinsenhof" Atelier in Delft (Netherlands); "Peace" is depicted in the central window, flanked by paranymphs representing the arts, science, industry, trade, etc.


August 28, 1913 - "Cristo Redentor de los Andes / Christ the Redeemer of the Andes," Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). On marble railing at top of the grand staircase. Overlooks "Peace Through Justice" (qv). A two-meter replica of the larger statue between Argentina & Chile (qv). Gift of Argentina. Inscribed "Crux lux mundi / The cross is the light of the world." Left image from Peace Palace website (from front but reversed!). Middle image by EWL (from rear but accurate). Right image from http://robertk.asia/ (also from rear). Note that Christ is holding the Cross with His left hand.
March 13, 1904 - Cristo Redentor de los Andes / Christ the Redeemer of the Andes, Uspalla Pass, Andes Mountains (Argentina/Chile). Celebrates the Peace of King Edward VII [1841-1910] of England. The statue was cast from melted military armaments, and hauled up to the 13,000 foot pass by the armies of both nations. It was on the cover of Time Magazine, December 17, 1928.


Comment: It is very difficult to photograph Christ the Redeemer in the Peace Palace since the lighting is dim, the statue is high on the railing, and Christ faces the void of the staircase (overlooking "Peace Through Justice" on the landing below). /// The very best photo of Christ the Redeemer was published on page 14 of the small 48-page Peace Palace guide book (2004), on-line (see above) & again in the huge 520-page anniversary book "The Building of Peace: A Hundred Years of Work on Peace Through Law. The Peace Palace 1913-2013" (2013). This photo was taken from the level of "Peace Through Justice," looks up at Christ the Redeemer & also looks down the grand staircase all the way to the main entrance (described above). Unfortunately, the photo is reversed in both books (& on-line). (Note that the reception desk incorrectly appears to the right of the main entrance, as seen from inside.) This makes it appear either that Christ is looking away from "Peace Through Justice" or that He has switched the Cross from His left to His right hand. /// IMO, it's inappropriate for an international organization to display any such religious symbolism, but various web pages indicate that Peace Palace guides deny that Christ & the Christian Cross are religious!


August 28, 1913 - Great Hall of Justice, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Original meeting room of the Permanent Court of Arbitration. Now used by the International Court of Justice (ICJ), also called the World Court. Painting at end of the room is "La Paix et la Justice / Peace and Justice" by Paul-Albert Besnard [1849-1934] & was placed in 1926. It measures 6 x 5 meters & was an official gift of France. /// The four stained glass windows behind the magistrates table are called "The Development of the Peace Ideal," were made by Scottish designer Douglas Strachan [1875-1950] & given by the United Kingdom.


August 28, 1913 - Small Hall of Justice, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Now used by the Permanent Court of Arbitration (PCA). Contains a Gobelin tapestry "The Glorification of Peace" given by France & which is unfinished because its artist was killed at the River Somme during World War I.


August 28, 1913 - Russian Vase, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). "Weighs about 1,200 kilos & bears the emblem of the Romanovs, a two-headed eagle." Inscribed "Don de S.M. l'Empereur de Russie NICOLAS. II / Gift of H.E. the Emperor of Russia NICOLAS II." In 1998. Nicolas II [1868-1918] invited all major nations to attend an international conference on peace & disarmament, leading to the First Hague Peace Conference in 1899.


Date? - Bust of Henry Dunant, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). Henry Dunant [1828-1910] of Switzerland helped found the Red Cross & in 1901 shared the first Nobel Peace Prize with Frédéric Passy [1822-1912] of France. Left image by EWL.
The Peace Palace has busts, statues & paintings of many notable peacemakers both inside & in the garden. I cannot find a complete list, but here is a partial list (in alphabetical order): Tobias M. C. Asser (1921), Rui Barbosa (1977), Andres Bello, Andrew Carnegie, William Randal Cremer (1913), Henry Dunant, King Edward VII (1913), Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1938), Elie Ducommun (1913), Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi (1952), Hugo Grotius, Bernard Loder, Professor Lyon-Caen, Nelson Mandela, Feodor Martens, Jean Monnet, Jawaharlal Nehru, Yorozu Oda, Albert Schweitzer, William Thomas Stead & Bertha von Suttner (2013). /// Click here for list of all "Notable Peacemakers" with these names marked with a Peace Palace symbol:


August 28, 2013 - Bust of Countess Bertha von Suttner, Main Hall, Peace Palace, The Hague (Netherlands). Unveiled on exact centennial of the Peace Palace by another female Nobel Peace Prize laureate, Leymah Gbowee of Liberia. Sculpted by Judith Pfaeltzer of Amsterdam. Left image by EWL shows Hope Elizabeth May with the bust on 3 September 2013. Right image shows Edward W. Lollis, Hope Elizabeth May & Roy Tamashiro. Not to be confused with another bust of von Suttner unveiled 6 days later in The Hague city hall (qv).
Comment: It took 100 years for von Suttner -- the woman most importantly identified with the Peace Palace and the first female to receive a Nobel Peace Prize -- to be memorialized in the Peace Palace.


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August 28, 1913 - Peace Palace Gardens, The Hague (Netherlands). Surround the Vredespaleis / Peace Palace (qv). "Considered among the most successful designs of the English landscape architect Thomas Hayton Mawson [1861-1933]. Mawson cleverly used a natural watercourse through the terrain, the famous Haagse Beek [Hague Creek], for the ponds. This brook rises in the nearby dunes & still flows along a watercourse under- neath the ponds to a large pond in the centre of The Hague, the Vijverberg." 3rd image shows plan of the gardens inside the Peace Palace paired with the bust of Andrew Carnegie [1835-1919]. 4th image is photo of the gardens under construction in 1911.


August 28, 1913 - Gates, Vredespaleis / Peace Palace, Carnegieplein 2, The Hague (Netherlands). "Two monumental cast iron gates guard the entrance to the Peace Palace. They are ornamented with four bronze reliefs depicting symbolic female figures: Amicitia & Pax, Justitia & Concordia." Right image shows Concordia with cornucopia.


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May 30, 2012 - Visitors Centre, Peace Palace, The Hague (Netherlands). Opened by Dame Rosalyn Higgins, former president of the International Court of Justice (ICJ), by switching on the exhibition. "The festive afternoon started by a word of welcome by Chairman of the Carnegie Foundation, Mr. Bernard Bot. "Outside the gates of the Peace Palace every day hundreds of tourists take a picture of the impressive façade. From now on it is possible to get acquainted with the compelling history of the Peace Palace & its current significance on the world's stage. The state-of-the-art building with striking titanium roof is designed by British architect Michael Wilford. In the exhibition area information about the Peace Palace & the institutions (The ICJ, Permanent Court of Arbitration, Hague Academy of International Law & Peace Palace Library) are brought to the attention in an attractive way with several historical objects, images & film."
Apparently intended to tell tourists about the Peace Palace without letting them go inside (like the museum in France which substitutes for a visit to the endangered Lascaux cave). Reception area (right image) sells just a few books, thus squandering a major opportunity to distribute information on peace & justice issues to an international audience.


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April 18, 2002 - World Peace Flame #1, Peace Palace, The Hague (Netherlands). Later World Peace Flames are in New South Wales (Australia), Tennessee (USA), Wales (UK) & elsewhere in the Netherlands (qv).

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April 22, 2004 - World Peace Flame Pathway, Peace Palace, The Hague (Netherlands). Contains a rock from each of the 197 nations which signed the world peace agreement.


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2004 - Peace Benches, The Hague (Netherlands). At the World Peace Flame (qv) in front of the Peace Palace (qv). Two benches paid for by the Carnegie Stichting / Carnegie Foundation on the occasion of its centennial in 2004. At least one is by Dutch artist Moki Last.

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August 28, 1913 - Peace Fountain, Zorgvliet Park, corner of Scheveningseweg & Carnegielaan, The Hague (Netherlands). Near the Peace Palace (qv). Van Karnebeek Bron / Van Karnebeek Spring is named for Abraham Pieter Cornelis van Karnebeek [1836-1925] , chairman of the Carnegie Foundation. For his work in founding of the Peace Palace, van Karnebeek & the board of the foundation were honoured in 1913 with this monument that also commemorates the opening of the Peace Palace on 28 August 1913. The fountain was designed by Willem C. Brouwer [1877-1933].

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September 14, 1929 - Peace Fountain, Amsterdam Park, St. Clair Avenue W at Avenue Road, Toronto, Ontario (Canada). Inscribed: "[Replica of] the fountain at [the Peace] Palace, The Hague. Presented by H.H. Williams...as a mark of his love [for peace]." /// A very successful Realtor who lived nearby, H. H. Williams donated the land for this park & the fountain in it. He went to Europe in search of a suitable fountain for the park & found what he wanted, a wall fountain near the entrance to the Peace Palace at The Hague. The Peace Palace had been built as a meeting place for all nations, in the hope of preventing any further world-wide wars. Williams had a replica built here which was unveiled the same day that the Peter Pan statue was dedicated across the road. The fountain has recently been restored. The park received its present name in 1974 when Toronto & Amsterdam became twin cities.

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Upper Image:
1992 - Haags oorlogsmonument 1940-1945 / Hague War Memorial 1940-1945, Carnegie Square, The Hague (Netherlands). Opposite the Peace Palace. Made by Appie Drielsma. Created at the initiative of a group of former resistance fighters. The four pillars symbolize the four groups in society during World War II: Neutral, Roman Catholic, Protestant & Jewish. The stone wall symbolizes the "dike of intransigence" (literal translation). Image courtesy of Steve Fryburg. Information courtesy of Nike Liscaljet.
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1992 - World War II Memorial (Haagse Herdenkingsmonument), Carnegieplein / Carnegie Square, The Hague (Netherlands). Photographed at dusk on Remembrance Day (Dodenherdenking), 04 May 2012. Google translation: "The monument was created by Appie Drielsma in 1992, and was created on the initiative of a group of former resistance fighters. The four pillars of the monument symbolizing the four groups in society at the time of World War II: neutral, Roman Catholic, Protestant & Jewish. The commemoration begins each year in the building of the Gymnasium Haganum with speeches by the mayor and include lectures by students of the gymnasium & the Segbroek College. Then everyone runs to the Carnegieplein. On May 4, at 8 o'clock in the evening then wreaths laid by the mayor, by relatives of the resistance by Jewish organizations, the Hague Student Association (HSV) & by Segbroek College, which has adopted the monument. The ceremony is organized by the Foundation for National Remembrance Hague. A brief memorial service held in the Peace Chapel in the Malacca Strait after which the attendees go to the monument and also lay a wreath. At the same time the National Memorial Foundation Hague keeps silent marches to the Waalsdorpervlakte, the cemetery Westduin (Monuments Stijkel Group and allies), the execution site on the Parallelweg & Loosduins monument. /// In 2013, the monument was moved. The Carnegieplein was made low-traffic, the square was larger, and the monument was placed in the group of trees closer, so that the views of the Peace Palace was free. Also the park outside the gates of the Peace Palace was enlarged. On the south side, behind the monument, was a row of benches put down."


August 15-September 21, 2013 - Exhibition "Peace Philanthropy - Then and Now," Atrium, City Hall, The Hague (Netherlands). Exhibition created by Prof. Peter van den Dungen, general coordinator of the International Network of Museums for Peace (INMP). Left image shows Gillian Sorensen at poster describing her boss, philanthropist Ted Turner. Right image shows philanthropist Cora Weiss photographing poster describing herself. Both images by EWL.
Incomplete list of philanthropists featured in the exhibition: -Jan Bloch, Richard Branson, Warren Buffett, -Andrew Carnegie, Peggy Dulany Rockefeller (Rockefeller family/Synergos), -Henry Ford, -Edwin Ginn, -Mo Ibrahim (‘African Good-Governance Prize’), -Bill & Melinda Gates, -Akio Komatsu, -Joan Kroc, -Nobuo Nakano, -Alfred Nobel, -Priscella Peckover, -John D. Rockefeller Jr., Joseph Rountree, Georges Soros, -Ted Turner, -Johan Wateler (Hague banker), -Cora Weiss (‘The Hague Appeal for Peace’) & Mohamed Yunus (Grameen Bank for the Poor). /// It's a pity that the posters of this exposition are not on-line so that they can be seen by the entire world.


September 3, 2013 - Release of the book "The Stars of Eternal Truth and Right: Bertha von Suttner's Campaign for Peace, Social Justice, and Womanhood," City Hall, The Hague (Netherlands). By Arthur C.G.M. Eyffinger, Wolf Legal Publishers, Oisterwijk (Netherlands), 216 pages. "The substance of this book captures the gist of her views & ideals by way of hundreds of citations gathered from her Memoirs, Diaries & Correspondence, and handpicked from the tracts, novels & papers that constitute the rich yield of her unstoppable scholarly, literary & journalistic endeavours. The sum total is a fascinating portrait of an intriguing woman & public figure, a steadfast advocate of Women`s Lib & the Cassandra of Peace on the eve of the Guns of August. Dr. Arthur Eyffinger (The Hague, 1947) is classicist & law historian."


September 3, 2013 - Unveiling bust of Bertha von Suttner, City Hall, The Hague (Netherlands). "As part of our Centennial celebrations we are honored to [welcome] the beautiful bust of Bertha von Suttner [1843-1914] lovingly sculpted by Ingrid Rollema. On the June 21, 2013, we celebrated the 99th anniversary of von Suttner's death." /// Left image by EWL shows Roy Tamashiro & Fumi Hoshino with the bust. Right image by Hope Elizabeth May shows the artist in her studio; apparently she permitted no in-focus photo of the bust before its unveiling. /// Not to be confused with another bust of von Suttner unveiled 6 days earlier in the Peace Palace (qv).

Wednesday, 4 September 2013:


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1997 - Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons (OPCW), Johan de Wittlaan, International District, The Hague (Netherlands). "After the Chemical Weapons Convention was signed in Paris in 1993, the OPCW was established in 1997 to monitor the implementation of the Chemical Weapons Convention." On the day of this visit, the OPCW was presumably studying new evidence of chemical weapons in Syria.

November 26, 2012 - Monument to Victims of Chemical Weapons, Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons (OPCW), The Hague (Netherlands). "Given to the OPCW by the Islamic Republic of Iran & unveiled by Iran’s Deputy Foreign Minister for International Affairs, H.E. Mohammad Mehdi Akhoundzadeh on first day of the 17th Session of the Conference of the States Parties. Represents a victim gradually losing his/her life from the effects of chemical weapons whose body is simultaneously converted into peace doves. Created by Taher Sheykh-ol-Hokamaii, instructor at the University of Tehran’s faculty of fine arts."


September 25, 2012 - Statue of Nelson Mandela, Johan de Wittlaan, International District, The Hague (Netherlands). "Looks towards the Peace Palace. Standing more than twice life size and unusually at ground level, sculpture Arie Schippers has captured the personality as well as the gait of the man. Originally scheduled to be unveiled by the great man himself on Nelson Mandela Day July 18th, the unveiling had to be postponed due to Nelson Mandela’s frail health. The statue was finally unveiled by Desmond Tutu on the 25th September 2012."

Take train from The Hague to Amsterdam.

September 4, 2013 - Tourist canal boat, directly opposite Central Railroad Station, Amsterdam (Netherlands). Photo by EWL.
September 4, 2013 - Potted plants on sale in Dutch countryside. Photo by EWL taken from moving train.

Take trains from Amsterdam to Osnabrück (Germany), from Osnabrück to Hamburg, and from Hamburg to Lübeck.

Thursday, 5 September 2013:


Date? - Der Friede / Statue of Peace, Puppenbrücke / Statue Bridge, Lübeck (Germany). One of 8 statues created by Diedrich Jurgen Boy in 1774. The originals suffered badly from air pollution & have been in the St. Annen Museum since 1985. The other 7 statues are of the river god Trave, Harmony, Courage, Wisdom, Freedom, Mercury & Neptune.

1871 - Holstentor / Holsten Gate, Holstentorplatz, Lübeck (Germany). Inscribed "concordia domi foris pax / harmony within, peace without." "This inscription is from 1871 and is a shortened form of the text which had previously been on the (not preserved) foregate: "Concordia domi et pax foris sane res est omnium pulcherrima. / Harmony within and peace without are indeed the greatest good of all." /// "Means literally "harmony at home, peace outside", and is more loosely translated at Wikipedia as "harmony within, peace without", making it so that domi means 'within the gates' and foris means 'without the gates.' The phrase uses a device called "chiasm," which uses one word order for the first half, and reverses it in the second. This puts concordia (harmony) and pax (peace), which are practically synonyms, as the first and last words, and puts domi (within) and foris (without) right next to each other. To preserve this in English, it would be 'harmony within; without, peace.' It is, of course, important to put a comma after "without" or use a different word altogether to prevent it from meaning "not having". Without chiasm, it would either be concordia domi pax foris or domi concilia foris pax." /// "The Holstentor is one of the most favourite buildings in Germany. The late gothic gate is at this time part of a fortification. In 1478 the main gate was finished." /// Both images by EWL.


March 28-29, 1942 - Gefallene Glocken / Broken Bells, Marienkirche / St. Mary's Church, Lübeck (Germany). Unintentional monument. "On the night of Palm Sunday from 28 to 29 March 1942, the church was almost completely burnt out during an Allied bombing raid along with about a fifth of Lübeck city centre, including the Lübeck Cathedral and St. Peter's Church... The bells of the church, which fell down during the ensuing blaze, lie where they fell to this day, where they remain as a memorial. They can be seen in the Gedenkkapelle in the south tower." Both images by EWL


2007 - Willy-Brandt-Haus Lübeck / Willy Brandt Museum Lübeck, Königstraße 21, Lübeck (Germany). "Federal chancellor & Nobel peace prize laureate Willy Brandt, born in Lübeck, was doubtlessly one of the city's most distinguished sons. This extensive permanent exhibition with numerous original objects is dedicated to the politician's career, his time as the West German head of government, his private life and his commitment to peace & human rights. Through the garden, where a segment of the Berlin Wall is on display, the museum is connected to the Günter-Grass-Haus. The building itself is a 18th-century town house, once the seat of the municipal archive and highly impressive in its own right." Right image by EWL.
Museum appears to be very well funded & offers free admission. Many books for sale on three walls around the reception desk.

Took train from Lübeck to Hamburg. Train from Hamburg to Berlin Haupbanhof. Train from Berlin Haupbanhof to Frankfurt-an-der-Oder. Taxi from Frankfurt to Slubice (Poland).

September 5, 2013 - Hauptbahnhof / Central Station, Berlin (Germany). Just changing trains. Photo by EWL.
September 5, 2013 - Bahnhof / Railroad Station, Frankfurt-an-der-Oder (Germany). Last station on the German rail system & therefore as far East as I could go on my Eurailpass. Photo by EWL.

September 5, 2013 - Oder/Odra River & skyline of Frankfurt-an-der-Oder (Germany) as seen from Slubice (Poland). Photo by EWL.
September 5, 2013 - First cigarette store after crossing bridge from Frankfurt-an-der-Oder, Slubice (Poland). Many storefronts just over the bridge in Slubice are devoted to currency exchange & cigarette sales. Photo by EWL.
Date? - plac Przyjazni / Friendship Square, Slubice (Poland). English goes everywhere! In background is Hotel & Restaurant "ANKA." Photo by EWL.

Friday, 6 September 2013:

2003 - Fountain in plac Przyjazni / Friendship Square, Slubice (Poland). Photo by EWL.
September 6, 2013 - Breakfast at Hotel & Restaurant "ANKA," Slubice (Poland). Photo by EWL.

Took taxi from hotel in Slubice (Poland) to train station in Frankfurt-an-der-Oder (Germany). Train from Frankfurt to Berlin Friedrichstrasse.


1998 - Light-box installation, Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstraße, Berlin (Germany). By Frank Thiel. Shows two larger-than-life color portraits. A young American & a young Soviet soldier each look into the other’s territory, thus marking the dividing line and crossing point between the former spheres of influence of the two world powers. The photos were taken in 1994 before the Allied forces withdrew from Berlin. Since the Soviet Union disintegrated in 1991, the “Soviet” soldier is wearing the uniform of the new Russian federation. Frank Thiel, the artist, explained his design as follows: "A Russian & an American soldier, since the Soviet sector bordered here on the American sector. At the same time, these portraits translate the omnipresent sector signs of the past – “You are leaving the American/British/French sector” – into picture form. They are likewise a reference to the historical moment when Soviet and American tanks faced off against each other right here." Middle image by EWL.


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October 19, 1962 - Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Mauermuseum), Friedrichsstraße 43-44, Berlin (Germany). "First museum of international nonviolent protest." Operated by Arbeitsgemeinschaft 13 August e.V / 13th August Study Group. Four permanent exhibitions: "The Wall," paintings of "The Wall," Berlin, and "From Gandhi to Walesa." At present location since June 1963. Click here for Wikipedia article. Right image by EWL shows museum bookshop. Affiliated with International Network of Museums for Peace (INMP).
Museum occupies all ground-floor spaces for an entire city block. The two spaces nearest the checkpoint are separate from the museum itself & are devoted entirely to the sale of souvenirs & books.



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1925 - Anti-Kriegs-Museum (AKM) / Anti-War Museum on Parochialstraße, Berlin. Opened by anarchist & pacifist Ernst Friedrich [1894-1967], whose 1924 picture book "Krieg dem Kriege! / War against War!" documented the horrors of WW-I (upper left image). Friedrich also owned the pleasure boat "Pax Vobiscum" on the River Spree. In March 1933, Nazi storm troopers (SA) destroyed the AKM and seized the "Pax Vobiscum." Friedrich was arrested, then emigrated to Belgium & France. In 1982 (15 years after the death of its founder), AKM was reopened by his grandson Tommy Spree (sic); its current address is Brusseler Strasse 21, Berlin. Lower image of "Pax Vobiscum" courtesy of Peter Nias who photographed it from Friedrich's 1935 book, "Von Friedens - Museum zum Hitler - Kaserne / From Peace Museum to Hitler Barracks" (upper right image).

2002 - Gedenktafel für Ernst Friedrich / Memorial plaque for Ernst Friedrich, Parochialstraße 1-3, Berlin-Mitte (Germany). Ernst Friedrich [1894-1967] was an anarchist pacifist who operated the first German anti-war museum. Marks site of his Anti-Kriegs Museum 1925-1933. Shadows cast by two old helmets containing flowers. Information courtesy of Gerard Lössbroek who is pictured in top image by EWL.

After 1974 - Graves of Carl von Ossietzky & his wife Maud Ossietzky, Friedhof Pankow IV, Niederschonhausen, Pankow, Berlin (Germany). Carl von Ossietzky [1889-1938] received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1935. Maud Lichfield-Wood Ossietzky [1888-1974] was a suffragette in Manchester (England), born a British colonial officer's daughter & the great granddaughter of an Indian princess in Hyderabad (India). Ossietzky's was the only Nobel peace prize awarded for opposing Nazism. Only inscription on plaque: "Frieden für Immer / Peace Forever." Inscription on small terra cotta marker: "Ehrengrab Land Berlin / Honorary grave, State of Berlin." Information courtesy of Christian Bartolf (who is pictured in the image by EWL).

2005 - "Das Gewehr Zerbrechen / Break the Gun," Ernst-Friedrich-Promenade, Berlin (Germany). Anti-war sculpture across the street from the Anti-Kriegs Museum (qv). Welded by Angelo Monitillo from found objects (breast is a shovel). Represents "broken rifle" logo created by Ernst Friedrich [1894-1967]. Information courtesy of Christian Bartolf. Similar but not the same as the logo of the War Resisters League.


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1982 - Anti-Kriegs-Museum (AKM) / Anti-War Museum, Brusseler Straße 21, Berlin (Germany). Originally founded by anarchist & pacifist Ernest Friedrich [1894-1967] in 1925 [right image]. In March 1933, Nazi storm troopers (SA) destroyed the AKM. Friedrich was arrested, then emigrated to Belgium & France. AKM was reopened in 1982 (15 years after the death of its founder) by his grandson Tommy Spree (sic). Affiliated with International Network of Museums for Peace (INMP).
Tommy Spree in left image. Christian Bartolf in right image. Both images by EWL.
Met by appointment with Tommy Spree [born 1940]. Museum displays old helmets, hand grenades & many photos of war wounds (particularly from WW-I). No connection to contemporary issues, other museums, or to the INMP is in evidence. Barely ten books are on sale, all of which are in German except 240-page "Krieg dem Kriege! / War against War!" (1924) which is in German, French, English & Dutch.

Saturday, 7 September 2013:


September 20, 2012 - BlackBox Cold War, Checkpoint Gallery, Brunnenstraße 188-190, 10119 Berlin (Germany). This is independent from the private Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. "The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here. Admission €5/3,50." /// "An exhibition space of more than 200 m² (2,160 ft²). Provides extensive information on the history of the Cold War. Using large-format photos and numerous media stations, explores the impact of the Wall on German history. Also makes the overall international dimension of the division of Germany and Europe tangible. The external design of the division relates to the two Great Powers – the Soviet Union & the USA. The black colour of the external façade stands for the black box itself – the flight recorder capturing what happened for posterity. The red colour of the pillar stands for the Soviet Union and the blue window for the USA. It is planned to create a Cold War Museum on this site by 2015. Right image by EWL. /// Information courtesy of Christian Bartolf.
This site was surrounded by temporary food & souvenir stands. I could not find an entrance & concluded that the "Black Box" is not yet open to the public. A construction fence along Friedrichstraße contains large photos & other information about the Checkpoint Charlie area & its history.

September 22, 2012 - "Daily life on both sides of the Wall," Berlin (Germany). Huge painting at Checkpoint Charlie by Berlin artist Yadegar Asisi. "The 15 metre (50 ft) high cylindrical steel rotunda Wall Panorama shows life along the wall near the central Engelbecken (Angel’s Basin) between the districts of Kreuzberg (West Berlin) & that of Berlin-Mitte (East Berlin). Will be on display until a date in 2014. Shows a panorama of daily life on both sides of the Berlin Wall on a fictitious autumn day in the 1980's. You see not only East German soldiers on border patrol but also graffiti artists, children playing & drunks at a curry wurst stand. Asisi is also integrating audio sequences & the voices of contemporary witnesses to complement the visual representation." /// Information courtesy of Christian Bartolf.


January 2011 - Education Centre of the BStU (STASI Museum), Zimmerstraße 90, Berlin (Germany). "The exhibition on the GDR's State Security." Operated by Federal Commissioner Preserving the Records of the State Security Service of the former German Democratic Republic (BStU). Free admission. Left image by EWL.


Date? - Berlin Hi-Flier, Wilhelmstraße & Zimmerstraße, Berlin (Germany). World's largest tethered ballon. Rises 150 meters. Left image by EWL. The long block of Zimmerstraße between Checkpoint Charlie & the Topographie of Terror has filled in with other tourist attractions & souvenir stands (many of which sell mostly Russian insignia & uniform parts, for some reason).


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1987 - Stiftung Topographie des Terrors / Topography of Terror, Niederkirchnerstraße (former Prinz Albrecht Straße), Berlin (Germany). An outdoor museum located on the site of Gestapo & SS headquarters (1933-1945). Largely destroyed by Allied bombing in early 1945. Ruins demolished after the war. The first exhibitions of the site took place in 1987 as part of Berlin's 750th anniversary. Cellar of the Gestapo headquarters, where many political prisoners were tortured & executed, were found & excavated. Site was then turned into a memorial & museum. In 1992, two years after German reunification, a foundation was established to take care of the site." After many delays, a new documentation center was opened in 2010 (qv). [Ian Buruma (1994), "The Wages of Guilt," pp. 206-9.] Left image by EWL.

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May 6, 2010 - Documentation Center, Topographie des Terrors / Topography of Terror, Berlin (German). "New exhibition & documentation building & redesigned historic grounds. Prize-winning design by architect Ursula Wilms (Heinle, Wischer und Partner, Berlin) & landscape architect Heinz W. Hallmann (Aachen). Opened by Federal President Horst Köhler on the occasion of the 65th anniversary of the end of World War II." See entry for 1987.


Date? - Berlin Wall Exhibit, Potsdamer Platz, Berlin (Germany). On high foot-traffic sidewalk among tall new buildings, incluing Deutsche Bahn (DB) headquarters. The Wall divided Potsdamer Platz, and the area ans grown expotentially since reunification. Left image by EWL.

Global Stone Project, Tiergarten Park, Berlin (Germany). Near the Goethe Denkmal & the Löwengruppe / Lions’ Group in the SE corner of Tiergarten park. Five stones, each weighing between 10 and 40 tons and corresponding to a “sister stone” on one of the five continents. The pairs of stones represent the five steps towards peace. Once a year on 21st June the light of the sun connects all ten [sic] stones by reflection. Wolfgang von Schwarzenfeld, sculptor & around the world navigator, began the Global Stone Project in 1997 in Venezuela.
February 1999 - America (Liebe/Love). 1st of 5 stones. Resembles a whale. From Gran Sabana National Park (Venezuela). Image by EWL. January 4, 2001 - Australia (Frieden/Peace). 2nd of 5 stones. From Mount Magnet sheep station (Australia). April 25, 2007 - Europe (Erwachen/Awakening). 3rd of 5 stones. From Ekaterinen (Russia). December 3, 2007 - Africa (Hoffnung/Hope). 4th of 5 stones. From Bertanie Quarry (South Africa). Placed by Archbishop Desmond Tutu. Date? - Asia (Vergebung/Forgiveness). 5th of 5 stones. From where?


May 27, 2008 - Presseandrang bei der Eröffnung des Denkmals für die im Nationalsozialismus verfolgten Homosexuellen / Memorial to Homosexuals persecuted under Nazism, Berlin-Tiergarten (Germany). "Designed by artists Michael Elmgreen & Ingar Dragset. On the front side of the concrete cuboid is a window, through which visitors can see a short film of two kissing men. The work is the third of its kind in Germany following Frankfurter Engel (1994) in Frankfurt & Kölner Rosa Winkel (1995) in Cologne." Both images by EWL show two wilting flowers at the window.
Oddly, this plain rectangular monument has absolutely no plaque, inscription or other other words of identification, and its only feature (a window) is opaque & apparently broken. A victim of vandalism?


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May 12, 2005 - Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas / Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Berlin (Germany). Between Potsdamer Platz & Brandenburger Tor. "Field of Stelae" has 2,711 stelae.


1966 - "Der Rufer / The Caller," Middle of Straße des 17. Juni / 17th June Street, Berlin (Germany). Near Brandenburg Gate. "I wander through the world and cry ‘Peace, Peace, Peace.'" This quotation from the Italian poet Francesco Petrarch [1304-1374] is inscribed on the base of the sculpture. This bronze sculpture is 3 meters tall and was created by the sculptor and graphic artist Gerhard Marcks [1889-1981]." Left image by EWL.


1793 - "Goddess of Peace," Quadriga, Brandenburger Tor / Brandenburg Gate, Berlin (Germany). Eirene or Irene. "Interpretation changed after the German victory over France in 1814 when the woman became Victoria, the goddess of Victory, by adding a Prussian eagle on an iron cross to her ensemble. Changed again to a symbol of the Third Reich when the Nazis reached power..."


September 7, 2013 - Ashraf Hunger Strike, Brandenberger Tor, Berlin (Germany). "Hundreds rally & march in Berlin's inner city to protest against a recent massacre allegedly by Iraqi forces at Camp Ashraf." /// "On Sept. 1, 2013, 52 members of MEK were massacred at Camp Ashraf. In a statement, U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon deplored 'the tragic events at Camp Ashraf' & said Baghdad should 'promptly investigate the incident & disclose the findings.'" All 3 photos by EWL.


1998? - Photo exhibition in S-Bahn station building, Nordbanhof, Berlin (Germany). "About Berlin’s ghost stations & border stations in divided Berlin 1961-1990. After the construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961, it was necessary to close some stations in order to prevent East Germans escaping through the tunnels & train tracks where East Berlin lines temporarily entered West Berlin. Nordbahnhof was one such station. Station entrances were sealed, side tunnels were blocked, and trains passed through the former stations without stopping. One of the exhibits here tells of the border guards who capitalised on their unique position to make their own escape. Once it was known that the guards themselves couldn’t be trusted, they observed the ghost stations from sealed units."



1998 - Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer / Berlin Wall Memorial, Dokumentationszentrum, Bernauer Straße 111/119 13355 Berlin (Germany). "The central memorial site of German division... Will eventually extend along 1.4 kilometers of the former border strip. Contains the last piece of Berlin Wall with the preserved grounds behind it & is thus able to convey an impression of how the border fortifications developed until the end of the 1980's." /// "An immaculate section of the Wall stands between two huge sheets of metal, seemingly frozen forever in time. The information center opposite charts the history of the 'Antifascist Protection Wall' erected in 1961 by the DDR to prevent the mass exodus of its inhabitants." /// Includes: 1) Visitor Center, 2) Documentation Center, 3) Chapel of Reconciliation [qv], 4) Monument, 5) Window of Remembrance, 6) Exhibition "'Border Stations & Ghost Stations in Divided Berlin" in the Nordbahnhof rail station.


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1894-1985 - Church of Reconciliation, Bernauer Straße, Berlin (Germany). "The division of Berlin in 1945 left the Church of Reconciliation in the Soviet Sector, but the pavement in front of the church and most of its parishioners were in the French sector. This meant that when the Berlin Wall was built in 1961, the outer wall passed directly in front of the church [left image] and the inner wall passed directly behind it leaving the church blocked off to all but the border guards. The Church of Reconciliation was an increasing annoyance to the GDR (German Democratic Republic or ‘East’ Germany) government. The nave was destroyed on 22nd January 1985 followed by the church steeple six days later [right image]. At the time, images of the crumbling steeple were broadcast around the world, causing both bewilderment & disgust. Instead of removing the building as a symbol, it assured that it would pass into legend."


1999 - Kapelle der Versöhnung / Chapel of Reconciliation, Berlin Wall Memorial, Berlin (Germany). Built on the site of the Church of Reconciliation. Note steel markers in the ground tracing the outline of the former church. Middle image shows enclosure for the former church's 3 bells. Right image shows its twisted cross. Chapel contains reconstruction of the Cross of Nails in Coventry (England). All 3 images by EWL.
September 7, 2013 - Photographer Ossian Fraser testing the reflectivity of a section of the Berlin Wall. Image by EWL.


1999 - "Reconcilation," Kapelle der Versöhnung / Chapel of Reconciliation, Berlin Wall Memorial, Berlin (Germany). Sculpted by Josefina de Vasconcellos [1905-2005]. One of 5 duplicates. See others in Bradford & Coventry (England), Belfast (Northern Ireland) & Hiroshima (Japan). Right image shows Bible & barbed wire on ground between the two figures. Left & right images by EWL.
July 12, 1995 - "Reconcilation," International Conference Center Hiroshima, Peace Memorial Park, Hiroshima (Japan). Statue by Josefina de Vasconcellos [1905-2005]. One of four copies of an original statue at University of Bradford (England). Click here to see all five statues. Image by EWL shows Prof. Peter Van Den Dungen, University of Bradford (far left), Schera Chadwick & Shigeko Uppuluri. Photo by EWL.

October 7, 1970 - Brunnen der Völkerfreundschaft / Fountain of the Friendship of Peoples, Alexanderplatz, Mitte, Berlin (Germany). Designed by Walter Womacka [1925-2010] as part of the redesign of Alexanderplatz. Dedicated on the 21st anniversary of the GDR. "At the center of the square. The 'Alex' has remained the true hub of East Berlin. Completely bombed, the working-class counterpart of Potsdamer Platz made way, in the 1960's, for an immense esplanade surrounded by concrete blocks."
1969 - Die Weltzeituhr / World Time Clock, Alexanderplatz, Mitte, Berlin (Germany). Designed by Erich John. Image by EWL.

Sunday, 8 September 2013:

Fly from Berlin Tegel to Frankfurt-am-Main, from Frankfurt-am-Main to Washington Dulles & from Washington Dulles to Knoxville.